Alexander Kraft’s Menswear 10 Commandments
The proprietor of Sotheby’s International Realty France / Monaco, in addition to dealing in deluxe estates, Alexander Kraft is also a noted arbiter of classic taste.
Dubbed one of the ‘50 Most Rakish Men Alive’ by The Rake magazine, and engaged as the exclusive ambassador for renowned French tailoring house, Cifonelli, he is also a published author (with the Thames & Hudson coffee-table tome, Living In Luxury), a producer of electronic music, and a licensed attorney-at-law — though we shan’t hold this last against him.
Taking the time to write MensTopTens.com whilst vacationing at his Palm Beach, Florida residence, here Kraft reveals the philosophies he has formed as a Renaissance man, aficionado of life’s rarer pleasures and well-travelled dandy.
10. “A true arbiter of style is polite, well-mannered, educated and considerate. The finest clothing in the world isn’t of any use if you are ignorant and behave obnoxiously: Then you are just an asshole in a bespoke suit.”
9. “It seems that in the past 20 years, everyone between the age of 15 and 50 has chosen to consider the tie his worst enemy, to be avoided at all cost. As a result, dark suits and open-necked shirts seem to have become the standard uniform for wealthy men the world over. Safe and comfortable? Yes. Elegant or imaginative? No. A tie will make any suit (or even a slacks-and-sportscoat combo) infinitely more elegant. You don’t have to wear your father’s boring ties: Try a knitted one, or one in cashmere or linen, knotted in a simple four-in-hand (a Windsor knot is the sign of a cad, as Ian Fleming’s James Bond well knew). Adding a tie takes 30 seconds more of your time in the morning, but will make an enormous difference.”
8. “True elegance is in the details. It always amazes me to see men in $7,000 designer suits that still look horrible because the coat sleeves are too long, the trousers have too much break and the jacket is too loose. If you invest the extra time, effort and money to get those details right, even an off-the-peg or vintage suit will look (almost) bespoke.”
7. “There is no sadder thing to behold than a male fashion victim. Fashion trends are meant to inspire us, not to be copied slavishly. If you like a certain trend, try one at a time to see if it suits you, but do not grow a beard, wear a key chain and skip socks in winter just because it’s currently considered ‘hip’. When I see grown men at Pitti Uomo trying to incorporate 15 trends into a single outfit, I can feel nothing but pity (pun intended) for them.”
6. “The most important element of true style — and often of a happy life in general — is to know oneself and act accordingly. Cary Grant hated his thick neck and always wore high collars or shawls to camouflage it. Gianni Agnelli loved double-breasted suits and rustic shoes and wore them to all occasions. If a certain colour, garment or cut works well for you, stick to it and make it your trademark.”
5. “A fatherly friend told me early on in life that he could always tell the character of a person by his shoes. This may sound a bit exaggerated at first, but is surprisingly true. Who would you rather hire to represent your company or to manufacture your product: The show-off with the expensive suit but cheap shoes? Or the quiet gentleman in a tweed jacket and benchmade shoes that may be 30 years old, but have been polished to perfection? When you meet someone, look him (or her) in the eyes, and then at the shoes. You’ll know.”
4. “Apart from a signet ring, a wedding band or a tie bar, the watch is the only acceptable piece of jewellery a gentleman can wear. Make it count. Vintage watches are much more interesting than most modern timepieces, and often surprisingly affordable. Rather than buying a luxury watch that is currently ‘in’ or, even worse, an overpriced designer watch with a quartz movement, invest in a mechanical watch from the 1940s to ’70s, and combine it with a custom strap. Minimal investment, maximum style. The very same goes for cars — instead of a new Honda, why not a vintage (but well maintained) Mercedes SL? Same price, but light years ahead in style, and an excellent long-term investment.”
3. “Dress, and behave, appropriately for the occasion. If an invitation says ‘black tie’, it does mean ‘black tie’, i.e. a tuxedo with a hand-tied black bowtie, not some dark suit with a silver tie or no tie at all. In a country house, you wear tweed, cords and cashmere, not pinstripe suits. On a boat, you wear cotton shorts, polo shirts and boat shoes (or no shoes), not designer outfits and street shoes. Clothing appropriately is a sign of respect, and not respecting your host or guests is not ‘cool’, but simply bad manners. Dressing correctly for the occasion is not only a virtue, but will also put you at ease and give you confidence.”
2. “Travelling in style is easier than it appears. A classic blue suit (preferably with a waistcoat), and a combination of light grey (or off-white) flannel trousers with a blazer or a sport coat in a discreet color (beige, brown, grey) are perfect travel staples. Better still, these outfits can be combined with each other, thus doubling your options. Dark loafers will suit most formal occasions, and Tod’s driving shoes all other ones. Throw plenty of shirts and underwear, some solid ties, bath trunks and polo shirts into your quality carry-on (see below), and you are set for all eventualities. And never, ever check your luggage.”
1. “The old adage is true: Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten. In the long run, it will always be cheaper to buy one long-lasting quality item than several cheap ones. No matter what your age, occupation and income bracket is, or whether you are in the market for shoes, a suit or a watch, don’t waste your money on an wide array of cheap fashion items which won’t last when you could save up and buy one great, timeless item instead. Quality over quantity, always.”
A day in the life of the Gentleman Alexander Kraft, Cifonelli's Egery.
