Raymond Chu’s Menswear Ten Commandments
A talented director, actor and editor, for nearly a decade now this young filmmaker and tastemaker has been regarded as one of New York’s best-dressed gentlemen. Here, Ray lays down the precepts and concepts that shape his sartorial philosophy.
10. “Costume is character. Clothes are tools for your environment. The way you dress will cue everything your audience needs to know about you when you enter a room. Watch films. Watch people. Listen to music. Find the authentic you.”
9. “Don’t try to squeeze every detail into a single look — you have to get dressed again tomorrow. And the day after that.”
8. “Fit is everything. No matter what silhouette you choose, draped or rigid, it must appear that you are wearing your clothes — not that they’re wearing you. If it fits perfectly, no-one will know the difference between the $30 Uniqlo or the $3,000 bespoke jacket, nor will they care.”
7. “Create rules for yourself, even temporary ones, but don’t let other people make rules for you. To quote Bruce Boyer at Permanent Style’s book signing, ‘At the end of the day, we’re all just doing whatever the fuck we want.’”
6. “Choose wisely and then wear the hell out of your clothes. Clothes usually look best just before they are completely unwearable, and every scar is like a luggage sticker from an adventure, a fingerprint. A Burberry trenchcoat pretty much lasts forever.”
5. “Buttons can make or break a piece.”
4. “Tie your bowtie as small and tight as possible. This was a quirky signature I picked up from rigging mannequins for the designers of Ralph Lauren, and it always looks neater.”
3. “Have a trademark, but make sure it’s a good one. Like a motif, this should be a product of your actual interests or lifestyle, and not an affectation. You probably already have one without knowing.”
2. “It’s always leather jacket weather.”
1. “Own your own tuxedo. It’ll subconsciously feel like having an ace tucked up your sleeve, even if it’s just hanging in your closet.”
